7+ Training Tips for Loose Leash Walking
I couldn’t write just one blog about loose leash walking, it’s not that simple. Out of all of the behaviors my dog knows, loose leash walking has been by far the most challenging (and she knows a lot of things – like how to dunk a basketball and fetch the mail). While the concept is simple, the execution is where the wheels usually come off.
Walking nicely on leash requires our dog to make hundreds of good choices, if you walk through the park near my house which may be considered a squirrel sanctuary at this point, maybe thousands of choices in a single walk. These choices often involve impulse control, which our dog’s can learn but don’t necessarily practice without our encouragement. I don’t rely on a single training solution when it comes to loose leash walking skills, instead I teach my students a variety of techniques that they can use in combination to achieve the desired results.
1. Stop and wait
Dog’s pull because they move faster than us and moving faster means they get to explore all the exciting things sooner. In order for our dog to walk with us they have to slow down and why would they want to do that? If our dog learns that in order to move forward and continue exploring, they have to stay with us, then staying with us becomes rewarding. When your dog surges ahead, stop moving and wait. As long as your dog can remain calm (not barking, whining or screeching – yes, some dogs screech) you are going to wait for them to make a choice. The choice we want to reward is returning to you, at which time you may choose to continue moving forward, change directions, or stay where you are and continue to reward calm, focused behavior. When your dog is on leash, there is only so far that they can go if you stop moving. A typical 6’ leash will give them a six-foot radius of exploration, but if they want to continue to move forward and explore a new area, they have to bring their focus back to you!
2. Circle around
If your dog begins to pull when moving forward, make a full circle until you are back where you started and then continue moving forward again once your dog has engaged with you. Circling encourages a dog to reduce their speed while covering familiar terrain again, allowing them to adjust to their environment and reconnect with their handler. This method doesn’t require food but rewards can be incorporated in the form of food scatters, reinforcement for checks ins, as counterconditioning, etc. This method, devised by Denise Fenzi, can make an excellent addition to your loose leash techniques toolbox. While I find that I get a bit dizzy making multiple circles, pairing the circle method with other techniques has proven very effective.
3. Back up
The first thing my basics students work on when adding movement in class is a following exercise which involves the handler taking a few steps backwards and encouraging the dog to follow (often with the help of one of the pattern games we teach). As I discussed in my previous blog, Loose Leash Walking: Stop Struggling, Start Engaging, the leash is there simply to provide management, the reality is that we want our dogs to want to walk with us or “follow” us. Following exercises encourage and reward movement with the handler, so why would your dog want to walk anywhere but with you if it’s so rewarding? Not only is the reverse following exercise a great way to start building loose leash skills, but it’s also great way to bring focus back on you when your dog surges ahead, it can be used to move your dog away and create space from a distraction or trigger, and it’s related to the basic exercises we work on for recalls. While backing up is just a change of direction, encouraging your dog to face you can make it easier for them to tune out what is going on in the environment and focus on you. You can pair this with the “get it” game to reinforce their attention, and potentially wait for a distraction to pass, before continuing on with your walk.
4. Change direction
This technique follows the same premise as some of the others, using a change of direction to encourage re-engagement with the handler and reduce pulling. Returning to previously explored terrain reduces the interest in that area and makes it easier for dogs to disengage from the environment and re-engage with their handlers. Changing directions can also be helpful in situations where our dogs are in need of additional space from triggers (things that produce an emotional response, whether it is excitement, anxiety, fear, etc.) enabling them to return to a calmer state of being. Lastly, a bit of unpredictability can be a good thing. Changing direction on a long line is one of my favorite games to play. I wait for my dog to become distracted by the environment, often a really good sniffy spot will catch her attention, at which point I begin wandering in the opposite direction of the way we were going. When she realizes I’m headed off without her, she eagerly hurries to catch up. I may even change my pace to encourage a quicker return and she often catches up and spends some time in a heel!
5. Communicate with your dog
When I say communicate, I don’t mean cueing constantly “heel”…“Buddy, heel”….”HEEL”, especially if your dog doesn’t know what heel means. I do have a cue for a heel position which I use sparingly, usually when passing by other people on a narrow path or trail as we like to be respectful of space. A lot of my communication on walks is conversational. Commonly used phrases like “let’s go” or “this way” have become conversational cues through repetitive use and contextual learning. This verbal engagement was intended to encourage my dog to bring focus back to me as I may be communicating something of importance. Now she has come to understand that “let’s go” means we are moving forward and “this way” will be a change in direction. “Wait” is another skill that my dog knows in the house to mean she is supposed to wait for something – food or treats, for the door to open, etc. – which on walks or hikes, means: wait where you are for me to catch up, wait there so I can move the long line from under your leg, wait at this crossing. Instead of yanking on the leash in an attempt to get my dog to comply with something I may not have clearly indicated, I can use my verbal communication to let my dog know what we are going to be doing next.
6. Train with games
My two most common games for loose leash skills are the 1-2-3 game and a moving version of the “get it” game. These games have many uses, but I find that they work well for improving loose leash skills. The patterns in each game are simple, yet effective, and training with games always makes things more fun! Our basics students learn to utilize these games in class, first as stationary exercises, then as a backup following exercise, and finally adding forward movement. The clear communication regarding the predictability of reinforcement can be a great way to keep our dogs engaged.
7. Reinforce the behaviors you want
Seems simple, however, I often have to remind handlers to watch what their dogs are doing and reward them for performing the behaviors that they like. Reinforcement drives behavior, so if we reward the “good” stuff, more of the good stuff will happen! The first step is to figure out what behaviors would be good to reinforce. Reinforcing check ins will help your dog stay closer and encourage more focus on you. If you want them to walk next to you, reward them when they are in the desired position at your side, and make sure to pick a side so as to not create confusion. Maybe you want them to look at you when they see another dog, that can be reinforced too. Identify what behaviors you desire and be present when walking your dog so that you can capture and reward these “good” behaviors.
BONUS:
One extra tip to help improve your loose leash practice is scatter feeding. Often times our dogs wait all day for their walk and by the time we get ready to clip on the leash, they are frantic to get out the door to explore. This heightened state of arousal can make it difficult for them to control their excitement, resulting in pulling. Even once our dogs learn how to reign in their exuberance, we may encounter triggers like squirrels, rabbits, bikes, etc., that make our dogs momentarily forget their good leash skills. Scatter feeding reinforces an alternative behavior of sniffing, a calming activity for many dogs. This can be really helpful in situations where we may not be able to create additional space from a trigger or if we want to reinforce calm behavior in proximity to things that may be challenging for our dog. If your dog is unable to participate in the scatter feeding because they are too stressed, I would suggest moving further away until they are able to enjoy the scattered treats.
These are many training techniques that can help improve loose leash skills, but nothing beats practice, patience and consistency! And remember, this walk isn’t just about you, it’s about your dog too; Taking your dog for a walk should be an enjoyable experience for both the handler and the dog!
